Various environment variables were not getting reset in the TAP tests,
which would cause failures depending on the tests or the environment
variables involved.  For example, PGSSL{MAX,MIN}PROTOCOLVERSION could
cause failures in the SSL tests.  Even worse, a junk value of
PGCLIENTENCODING makes a server startup fail.  The list of variables
reset is adjusted in each stable branch depending on what is supported.

While on it, simplify a bit the code per a suggestion from Andrew
Dunstan, using a list of variables instead of doing single deletions.

Reviewed-by: Andrew Dunstan, Daniel Gustafsson
Discussion: https://postgr.es/m/YLbjjRpucIeZ78VQ@paquier.xyz
Backpatch-through: 9.6